Exploring Malta’s Historic Lace Craft
Until recently, it was a common sight in Malta to see women creating bizzilla (lace) on a ‘trajbu‘ (a cylindrical pillow made of straw covered in brown paper) using ‘combini‘ (bobbins) right on their doorsteps. This time-honored craft, emblematic of Malta’s rich cultural tapestry, has been practiced for centuries and continues to be a cherished element of the island’s artistic tradition.
Origins of Maltese Lace
The art of lace-making has deep roots in the Maltese Islands, dating back to the era of the Knights Hospitaller. One of the earliest visual depictions of lace in Malta is found on the tomb of Cardinal Hugues Loubenx de Verdalle, a French Cardinal and Grand Master of the Order of Malta from 1582 to 1595, located in the crypt of St. John’s Co-Cathedral. The lace adorns the edge of the Grand Master’s ceremonial robe, adding a layer of intrigue regarding whether the lace was crafted locally or imported from France.
The Evolution of Maltese Lace Craftsmanship
In 1833, Lady Hamilton Chichester gifted the Ciglia family a Greek lace pattern during a competition in Malta. This pattern inspired them to produce white and black guipures (a type of heavy lace with embroidered motifs connected by thick stitches). This distinctive style eventually became renowned as “Maltese Lace“. The elegance and intricate designs of Maltese lace have made it a highly desirable and sophisticated craft.
Defining Features of Maltese Lace
“Maltese Lace” is characterized by several distinct features:
- Materials: Traditionally crafted from cream silk, with black silk and occasionally linen thread also used in the past.
- Maltese Cross: The 8-pointed Maltese Cross is a frequent motif in the patterns, often worked in whole or cloth stitch.
- Design Elements: Patterns may include closely worked leaves known as “wheat ears” or “oats”. These leaves are plump and rounded, contrasting with the long, narrow leaves found in other types of bobbin lace.
Maltese Lace in Modern Art and Design
Lace motifs and techniques are increasingly visible in contemporary art and design. Modern artists and designers are exploring the evocative nature of lace to create innovative interpretations. Artisans are integrating themes of gender, domesticity, and sensuality into their lace works, while designers are experimenting with and challenging traditional lace structures. Contemporary fiber artists are applying bobbin and needle lacemaking techniques to a diverse range of fibers and colors, offering fresh perspectives on this ancient craft.
Preserving the Heritage of Maltese Lace
Ongoing efforts are dedicated to preserving and celebrating the craft of Maltese lace. The meticulous craftsmanship and detailed designs of Maltese lace are integral to Malta’s cultural heritage. Visitors can delve into the history of this exquisite craft by visiting local museums and cultural institutions, where they can witness traditional lace-making demonstrations and acquire authentic Maltese lace pieces. The enduring appreciation and support for Maltese lace ensure its continued legacy for future generations.
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